Today, I am pleased as punch to bring you a bit of culinary wisdom from my recent sojourn in the Philippines. Ah, mere mention of the name calls to mind the heady perfume of island flowers, the warm caress of the tropical breeze and the rhythmic of crack of Abu Sayyaf rebels firing their automatic rifles skyward in celebration of the taking of another Western hostage.

The island chain’s position at the confluence of East-West trade routes and a history of foreign occupation by Spain and, more recently, the U.S. has left an indelible mark o­n the cultural landscape. o­ne needs look no further than the local cuisine to see the stamp of Spanish colonial influence blending with Asian Pacific traditions.

Take, for instance, the cornerstone of Filipino cooking, adobo. Any traveler lucky enough to indulge his or her appetite o­n the local fare has more than likely encountered a variable of this sublimely simple meat dish. It’s blend of sour and salty flavors is the perfect compliment to a chilled bottle of San Miguel pilsner after a long day of beach combing or drilling the young scamps o­n phonics. What follows is o­ne of my favorite adobo recipes, culled from days of tireless research in the waterfront pubs and eateries of Busuanga Island…and about 15 minutes scanning the Internet.

Ingredients

 

2 lbs. of chicken or pork*

3-4 tablespoons of soy sauce

3 tablespoons of cider or rice vinegar

Black peppercorn (to taste)

Brown sugar (optional)

3 bay leafs

½ to 4 chopped cloves of garlic (amount depending o­n how much you enjoy the flavor of garlic over the need for human companionship)

The marinade

In a largish pot blend soy sauce, vinegar, pepper, garlic and bay leaves. If you prefer a sweeter variation of this dish, a small amount of brown sugar can be added to taste.

Heat the mixture over a low flame for about 3 minutes while stirring. Take care not to let the mixture burn or boil too much.

Remove from heat and set aside.

The meat

Chop the meat into manageable chunks. Chicken should be left o­n the bone to help the meat retain the natural moisture and enhance flavor. **

Place the meat chunks in the marinade and allow it to soak for 1-4 hours. This is a crucial stage. It is here that the natural flavor of the meat chooses to embrace zippy tang of the vinegar and the subtle warmth of the spices. Locked in a passionate dance of competing flavors, the trio build to a crescendo marked by the…Excuse me a moment.

After marinating, bring the mixture to a boil and cook covered for 10-15 minutes until the meat is tender.

Serve the adobo over white rice with cold beer.***

*Though chicken and pork are the most common meats associated with adobo, mainly because of their availability throughout the island chain, almost any kind of meat and even fish can be prepared adobo style. Beef steak, lapu-lapu and monitor lizard are all possible variations o­n the more pedestrian adobo themes.

**Monitor lizard, or any other meat that fits into the "They Say it Tastes Just Like Chicken" category should also be left o­n the bone. This group includes most, if not all, reptiles, like turtles and snakes; anything that flies, including bats and certain squirrels; and all creatures that lay eggs and/or have a bill, excluding the duckbilled platypus, which fits the description o­n both counts but tastes like pork. Platypus adobo is not very popular, even in Australia.

***Mashed potatoes are an acceptable alternative for the rice-weary.